August 14: Langa and Stellenbosch

Township and Winery
by Dale P. Haiducek


Departing from our resort-like apartments lying within view of the Atlantic Ocean, we 19 Spartans made our way across Cape Town. Led by our good-humored guide, Salie, and piloted by Salie’s quiet, respectful driver, Michael, our bus crossed the bustling city center, passing the utterly vacant District Six and rounding Table Mountain, to reach Langa, a Black township established under Apartheid.
After briefly visiting the St. Francis Adult Education Center in St. Anthony’s Catholic Church, we observed the Naledi Pottery Project in action, housed within Guga S’thebe, a building created to combat unemployment in South Africa by teaching new generations of artisans how to create and market art for self-sufficiency. Having spent yet more rand on lovely jewelry, polished pottery, and a yamulka fashioned out of pop cans, we arrived at Tsoga Tours. There Salie handed us off to Xolani Sipoyo who was to guide us through the depths of Langa for the next hour and a half. Here we gained an insider’s perspective on living in a Black township, touring government-built working-class housing, hostels, the “wealthy” housing of Beverly Hills, and the informal shanty town settlement on the periphery of the township.
Sobered by the sights of cramped, hastily constructed living quarters, we drove to the vast vineyards of Cape Town. Surrounded by the withered grape vines of winter, together we dined at Neethlingshof for a final farewell meal, savoring good food and good company. Satisfied and somewhat saddened by this last luncheon together, we made our way to the final stop on the tour, Nelson’s Creek Winery. Here Victor Titus “edutained” us on the finer points of growing, extracting, fermenting, and, our favorite, tasting wine. Now feeling quite good about the day, Salie and Michael took us home.

The Epic Poem about Our Eye-Opening Day

Our boy Salie, that fine old bloke,
Got us started off right by telling a joke.
Seems the leader of Zimbawe wasn’t doing so well
So he went to Heaven but they sent him to Hell.
Ol’ Mugabe accidently left his luggage up there,
Sent two men up to bring it back to his lair.
“Go get my three bags of money if you please.”
Angels nabbed ‘em, “He’s already sending refugees!”

All aboard, Michael got our bus rolling
Through the city center we soon were patrolling,
Past statues of long deceased white guys,
Including Portugese explorer Bartholomew Diaz.
Now he may have landed on the Cape first,
But the Blacks were here—it’s for their land the Europeans thirst.
City Hall was constructed in 1905
For Queen Victoria when she was alive.

Nelson Mandela addressed the whole country from here
In 1990 when South Africans lived in fear.
The government let Madiba out of prison that day
And began to send Apartheid on its way.
A big open field still marks District Six
Where the government ruined people’s lives just for kicks.
They hauled in bulldozers and flattened the place
That proved people could live together—people of every race.

You may wonder how Salie knows so much,
Rattling off names and dates and events and such.
Turns out our guide was part of the resistance movement
Out on missions our faithful guide was sent.
He detonated bombs and set fire to principal offices,
Fighting Apartheid and people supporting its injustices.

Now more in awe of our knowledgeable guide
At Guga S’thebe art center our bus arrives.
Here we watched beautiful pottery being made
For thousands of World Cup mugs are these artisans now being paid.
When famous people make their way to Cape Town,
Like Bill Gates, George Bush, and other leaders make their way down,
The Nadeli Pottery Project is called into action
To make commemorative plates and reduce unemployment a fraction.

We all thought this program was so neat
We bought the fruits of their kilns cooked in 600 degree heat.
Xolani Sipoyo of Tsoga Tours now showed us the way
And asked our expectations of what we might see today.
This having been a completely unique experience
No one answered and for a while simply remained in silence.
Finally we compared it to Richard’s Bay and Nkandla
Expecting to find even more poverty here in Langa.

We started with a working-class house in the township
That once had two bedrooms, common room, and outdoor toilet.
In ’96 families were handed the deeds to their place
So they now owned and could expand and improve their space.
Every house gets 6,000L of free water here
Say the people: “Save water, drink beer!”

The hostels turned out to be a sadder sight
But the government is slowly upgrading their plight.
An apartment has 6 bedrooms with a family in each
But new apartments—one per family—sure has that beat.
Of that cramped space we had gotten our fill
Saddened by Apartheid which affects people still.

Onward to Pre-Primary School for a bit of a show,
For children make teachers’ hearts melt, as we all know.
Small little kids did some song and dance numbers
Showing school pride to this group of white newcomers.
Dalukhanyo School started in a big open field
And now they have buildings—from the weather do they shield.
Having said “Enkosi” to our little friends in the school
(That means “Thank you” in Xhosa—learning languages is so cool!),
We moved on out to Beverly Hills.
Still in Langa, we walked past windowsills
Of houses built to cover up the township from the world,
And hide the tragic places blacks had been hurled.

But keep walking and we soon came to the edge
Where people are living barely on life’s ledge.
Here the improvised housing and small little shacks
In this area thousands of people are packed.
Pit toilets and electricity the government has provided
And the plan is to have the residents all redivided
Into new hostels that are now being constructed,
Away from the shanties now being destructed.

We took leave of Langa Township and Tsoga Tours
Heading to the vineyards and winelands that lure.
At Neethlingshof the MSU group dined
Sharing a meal for the very last time.
Sad as we were to soon be departing
Yet glad to have shared the time here so fleeting.
Many a tear lay in our eyes
As the group made its formal good byes.

And off to Nelson’s Creek Winery we go
To Victor Titus we say, “Hello!”
He’s here to be our edutainer
In one an educator and entertainer.
In 1987 Alan Nelson bought this wine estate
Where they grow grapes and make wine in the very same place.
The first wine came out in 1993
To make champion wine—that was the key.
In 1996 they made the South African Champion Chardonnay
And in ’97 Nelson gave his workers 9.4 hectares, not making them pay.

So came about the first black-owned wine
New Beginnings it’s called, and my it is fine!
Victor edutained us on growing wine grapes.
We all decided that this place is great!
Of 132 hectares, two-thirds are red grapes
The rest are white—discrimination! What a disgrace.
A destemmer gets the grapes all alone
A thrasher squeezes till mash is shown.
The mash is pressed; the juice flows inside
Into tanks does it rest, then add yeast and some pride.
Oh, boy! Here’s where it starts!
Yeast fermentation makes alcohol from the sugar part!
When the wine is “dry” of all the sugar
They may let it sit even longer.

Tannins make your wine taste dry
Sitting around breaks down these guys.
Aromas come from “lees” or used yeast
That could make the wine better at least.
Finally it’s moved to barrels to be drunk,
So into 19 chairs we all sunk.

First you look at the wine and the color
For white, more oxidation or sugar, the yellower.
For red it’s a slightly different story
A browner rim and it’s in older glory.
A pinker rim, and it’s still young yet.
But this may be the wine you usually get!

Next you give the fine wine a smell
Give it a swirl, then you’ll smell it well.
Now the best, you give it a taste
Let it linger in your mouth—it’s not a race.
If the smell and the taste are the same flavor
Buying a bottle would do you a favor.
And then we did.

Robben Island

Lindsey LaBar
Robben Island

On the cloudy and drizzly morning of August 13, we made our way to Robben Island, “the island” as it is sometimes referred to. We departed from Mandela gateway and after security checks we boarded the Susan Kruger. The distance we would travel on the boat would be 12 kilometers and would take approximately 45 minutes. On the way to Robben Island there were dolphins spotted and a gorgeous view of Cape Town with Table Mountain in the background.
As we were approaching Robben Island, I was very anxious for what we were going to see and learn about. I sat on the boat wondering what all of the prisoners were thinking of as they made their journey to the island. I also was picturing what the Island would look like. In my mind I envisioned one large building made of concrete and surrounded by flat land. What came into view was totally different than the misconception that I had envisioned in my head. The island actually had many more buildings that the one that I had envisioned.
Once we landed on the island we were loaded into buses, and given a short tour around the whole island. Our tour guide for this portion of the trip was Nandipha. Who informed us of the background of the island, as well as some facts and figures. Robben Island is the first World Heritage Site in South Africa and is approximately 574 hectares. The island has been home to many different groups that were placed on the island, including political prisoners, mentally ill people, and lepers. Each of these groups lived on the island at different times and stayed for different amounts of time. There are four different prisons on the island including the maximum security, the medium security, the old, and the Robert Sobukew House, which is actually the smallest prison in the country and was built especially for him. Sobukew is the man who encouraged all black men in 1948 to go to their local police and turn in their passes. This pass gave them restrictions as to where they could go and what times they could be there. That day when they went to turn in their passes 69 people were shot dead, over 100 were injured. He was arrested and brought to the Island. He died at age 54 on the Island. Before his death they realized that his vocal cords were being damaged, because he was not allowed to talk to anyone, so they started to let his family members visit him. Some of the other buildings on the Island include churches, housing for workers, used to be housing for wardens and their families, a primary school, a shooting range.
The island has been home to hundreds of people throughout the years, and is also known as the prison in which Nelson Mandela was held during his imprisonment. While on the tour, we met another man who called Robben Island his home and even today calls it home. He is a former political prisoner who now works as a tour guide on the Island. Ntozelizwe Talakumeni ((58/86) prison number/year arrested), he was arrested in 1984 and sentenced in 1986 for14 years. While he lived on the island he resided in section F, Cell #1. Inside of this cell there also lived approximately 80 more inmates. On 2 February, 1990 all political prisoners were to be released. They did this releasing in groups and Ntozelizwe was apart of the third group to be released. He ended up serving four years in prison.
When asked why Ntozelizwe wants to work on the Island, the place where he was imprisoned, he responded in such a neat manner with a smile on his face. He informed me that in 1995, Nelson Mandela called upon all the former prisoners and they met for the second time since being released. Mandela was asking about the Museum of Robben Island that was going to be opened and the way in which they, the prisoners, wanted it to be. The prisoners all agreed that they wanted to be the ones to run this museum and to tell the story of the Island. They wanted this Island to be a chance for the world to learn and discover, and wanted to show everyone that they don’t bear any anger or grudge against their fellow brothers and sisters.
Most of the tour guides on Robben Island are former prisoners that share their insights and their personal experiences from their time on the island. This personal experience and expertise makes the visit even more interesting, especially to hear them speak of how they were treated and what they had or did not have during those times.
Robben Island is currently under construction, in order to preserve the buildings that are falling apart. Section B in the Maximum Security Prison where not only Nelson Mandela was held, but also where many of the other important political prisoners were kept. They did however have a replica of what these cells were like. It was interesting to think of these men trapped in such a small confined area, yet they never gave up hope and always believed that one day they would be free, one day they would have the rights they deserved.
Another prisoner that I learned about during my visit to Robben Island was Ahmed Kathrada. I read a short book by him on the trip home from the island called “A Free Mind: Ahmed Kathrada’s Notebook From Robben Island” Kathrada spent over twenty years in prison, from 1964-1989 and became a Member of Parliament in South Africa. During his stay on Robben Island he created a journal of inspirational quotes, which he had to keep a secret from the wardens.
“No one can be perfectly free until all are free; No one can be perfectly moral ‘till all are moral; No one can be perfectly happy ‘till all are happy.” –Herbert Spence (p.124)
Unfortunately the warden was not working on the day we visited the shop on the island, so I could not ask him any questions regarding working there. But I did find it intriguing to learn that the warden who was in charge of these prisoners still resides on the island and works side by side with the prisoners that he was once in charge of.
As we were leaving the tour and making our way back to the boat, which would take us back to the mainland and culminate our journey to the island. Margaret pointed out a Calla Lily, which is the Peace Lily. The lily was so bright and beautiful against the backdrop of dark gray. It was a symbol of hope for years to come that this peace can remain and that there never again will be a dividing between colors of skin. Having this lily on the Island seemed like such a unique aspect, that it is there every day to show that peace can exist.

Time Line of Robben Island
400 years ago the Island was used for banishment/political troublemakers
1658- First prisoner was taken to Robben Island
1659- This prisoner escaped by boat
1861- The Island became a hospital for the mentally ill
1940’s- Military base in World War II
1960- The first visitors block was opened and prisoners would have 30min. with their family members. Could only speak in Afrikaans or English and could only discuss family matters and there was a thick piece of glass separating the visitor from the prisoner
1963- Maximum security prison built by the prisoners and could hold up to 800 prisoners
Lepers brought to the island because ‘out of sight out of mind’ was the way the government thought. The Lepers were separated by male and female as well as by racial lines. The reason for this separation was that they did not any children being born, yet 42 healthy children were born and taken away to the main land
1967- The Red Cross came to the island after Nelson Mandela secretly wrote a letter to them complaining about food and clothing
1979- The prisoners received beds to sleep on
1982- The prisoners were involved in a hunger strike
1990- The first political prisoners were let off the island
1991- The last group of political prisoners left the island and common law prisoners started to be taken to Robben Island
1996- Robben Island closed


For more information about Robben Island check out their website!

Table Mountain, Penguins, and Cape Point

Michigan State Invades Cape Town

Cape Town, South Africa
By Jaimie Radford

It’s a bird! It’s a plane! No, it’s just those Spartan teachers.
Cape Town is amazed as Michigan State teachers flood the city and all its major tourist attractions. Driven by Edmund and navigated by Salie Moosa, the seventeen teachers and two leaders made their way from their base hotel, the Centurion, to the top of Table Mountain, past the University of Cape Town, by the Grooteschuur Hospital (which conducted the first human heart transplant), past Kalk Bay, and to Simon’s Town. After a quick visit with the penguins, the group travelled to the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point.
The journey began with Salie providing various facts about South Africa regarding its population of fortysix million people, with a mere four million in Cape Town alone. It was also acknowledged that tourism and natural resources drive the population while unemployment and housing are having negative affects on the community.
Salie had made reservations for the cablecar ride up the mountain, so we avoided the massive Table Mountain line. The Table Mountain cableway, which has operated since October 1929, has a 65 passenger cable car that rotates 360 degrees during its journey from cape Town to the top of Table Mountain, which has its highest point at 1085 meters. The cars can take 900 people per hour and run at a maximum speed of ten meters per second. They are also 1200 meters each in length and weigh 18 tons. They can carry a weight of 5200 kg.
The students walked on the top of the mountain for about 45 minutes and when they came down, were speechless. Some of the only words they could sputter out were: phenomenal, fantabulous, breath-taking, beautiful, indescribable, memorable, bekubanda. One student, Anthony Galardi, described the experience as “epic.”
While they were still in awe, they travelled past Lion’s Head Mountain, the University of Cape Town, the Mount Nelson Hotel (named after Lord Nelson; has been named the number one hotel in the world), the Holocaust Museum, Trafalgar High School (a District Six High School still standing), vacant land (a part of District Six), Grooteschuur Hospital, Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, Constancia Vineyards, Falks Bay, Kalk Bay, and Fish Hoek until finally they came to the small bay of Simon’s Town. Here they saw the buildings over 100 years old, including the British Hotel where John Rhodes (responsible for the Mandela Rhodes Trust and the design of the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens), celebrated the completion of the railway running from Kalks Bay to Simon’s Town. Before Simon’s Town, the students delayed their excursion to Whale Watch at Muizenberg Beach. These whales can commonly be seen there from July to November.
In Simon’s Town, a quick lunch was grabbed and then they were spotted at Boulders taking in the waddling of the African Penguins. One male student thought the penguins were dirty but a female student, Kristin Thielemans quickly acknowledged that they were just moulting (an annual process that occurs for about 21 days and rids the penguins of their old feathers). The learners were amazed to learn that because of their donkey-like braying call the African Penguins used to be called the Jackass Penguins, and also that their diet is comprised mainly of squid and shoal fish such as pilchards and anchovy. They were able to see their black and white coloring used as a camouflage (white for underwater predators looking upwards and black for predators looking down onto the water) from predators such as sharks, seals, killer whales, mongooses, genets, cats and dogs and kelp gulls that steal their eggs and newborn chicks. They also had the opportunity to see them swim at a speed of 7 kilometers per hour and submerge under water for up to two minutes. When being told about the penguin habit of monogamy, the students jokingly responded that they could never be penguins.
Headed toward the Cape of Good Hope, the students encountered baboons! Waymomay, mothers, fathers, and babies were all over! They would stubbornly sit in the middle of the road as well as on top of automobiles. Frightened that baboons would park themselves on top of their very own tour bus, the teachers continued on their journey…until they reached their final destination: The Cape of Good Hope.
The beautiful fauna and flora of the Cape of Good Hope amused the students as they approached Cape Point. From their tourist bus, they could see bontebok, which are antelope-type animals that camouflaged with their surroundings. Other animals that were seen were more baboons and ostriches. Other animals that were not seen by the students but are found in the park were zebra, lizards, snakes, tortoises, insects, dassies, striped mousse, water mongooses and cape clawless otters. The Cape of Good Hope is also home to at least 250 species of birds.
Finally they got to Cape Point where Salie informed them that they would have would have to travel 1,432 steps to get to the lighthouse. Later, after he believed he frightened the students, he told them it was footsteps and waited for them to be relieved. They travelled up ramps and steps until they reached the beautiful lighthouse of Cape Point. It was at this point that Portuguese navigators rounded the cape in search for land, and landed at Mussel Bay. Also, this is the spot where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Indian Ocean, and is the southernmost point of South Africa.
After taking in the views, most students hiked down to the Cape of Good Hope, immersing themselves in the beauty of the area. This also provided an opportunity for more scenery photographs, and allowed the students to reflect upon their experiences thus far in South Africa. The Cape of Good Hope, which is the most southwest point of South Africa, had a beautiful beach with striking white sand. The sounds of “Ooohs” and “Ahhhs” were barely heard over the crashing waves of the bright blue ocean. When Salie announced that it was time to leave, it was hard to gather the group; clearly they did not want to leave.
In the 7,700 acres of the Cape of Good Hope, there are over 1100 species of indigenous plants. The two types of fynbos (fine bush) are coastal fynbos and inland fynbos and are commonly found in the park.
On the way back to the Centurion Hotel, the students reflected on their day journeying through Cape Town in their dreams (nearly the entire tour bus was napping). Cape Town proved to be a beautiful and glorious experience for the Michigan State teachers. It is doubtful that they will ever see something so beautiful again in their lives.

Cape Town--District Six Museum

Jenny Hopcian

District Six

Saturday was a wonderful day to be in Cape Town. We took two taxis to District Six Museum where we learned about the history of apartheid and its effects on the community. Established in 1867, the neighborhood was home to many immigrants and freed slaves. The Group Areas Act of 1950 named District Six an area for whites only on February 11, 1966. Over the next four years, two hundred families were physically removed from their homes every six months. It took a total of four years to get the seventy thousand residents out of District Six, and many were relocated to the Cape Flats. Bulldozers finally demolished the area in 1970. Astonishingly enough, many whites refused to move into the area due to the devastating circumstances, and it was renamed Zonnebloem by the apartheid government.
The District Six Museum is a place for people (ex-residents and tourists) to hear stories of individuals who were ravaged by forced removals. One man, Noor (Light) Ebrahim, is both an ex-resident and now tour guide of District Six. We were lucky enough to hear his dynamic story first hand today during our visit. Noor showed us where his house was located on the giant floor map and shared personal stories and family photos with our group. It is not surprising to hear about the frustration of individuals like Noor due to the long wait in rebuilding the township. While sixty percent of the land is empty, money continues to support outside projects such as the FIFA World Cup (2010). Despite the grief and frustration Noor explains, “We don’t hate them. We forgive them.”
Walking around the museum helped us better understand the massiveness of forced removals. Covering the walls are quotations, pictures, memorabilia, and stories. A large name cloth hangs seven meters long and is used as a means of recording names of residents of District Six. The inscribed cloth was transformed into a bright and enduring banner. Each week three women meet to continue embroidering the beautiful name cloth. Also hanging are banners, rent cards, identity documents, letters, and detailed explanations that helped us understand the totality of the loss.
As we continued our stroll through the museum, we came to a large room dedicated to acknowledge the Horstley Street Memorial Park. The circular room recognizes the bare earth of District Six as a powerful symbol and reminder of the history of forced removals. The construction phase talks about the terrace huts built on Horstley Street (100 singly story huts). Phase two of the park describes the occupation of the one hundred years of use. Artifacts such as marbles, toys, pins, cups, sheep bones, peach pipes, and shoes are displayed in glass cases. The final phase explains the short, brutal destruction of Horstley Street by bulldozers. “The Writers Floor” is covered with beautiful tiles that tell stories driven by the urgency of voices. Along with the mosaic floor, music and pictures surround the Memorial Park.
The District Six Museum evokes unforgettable emotions. Our visit to the museum truly helped us make sense of many of the readings and tales we talked about so many times. Seeing the faces, reading the poetry, listening to the sounds, and touching the artifacts brought the museum to life.

Cape Town--Bo Kaap

Anthony Galardi
Bo-Kaap Museum and Walking Tour

A usual morning in Cape Town as we piled into the 9-person taxis known as “ventures”. Our destination: The Bo-Kaap Museum where we were to meet Shireenn Misbach-Habib. Shireen is a lifetime resident of the Bo-Kaap, a former politician and a well-respected historian known throughout Cape Town. Prior to meeting Shireen, our group explored the museum; we familiarized ourselves with what exactly the Bo-Kaap community consisted of and looked at the beautiful photographs that have documented the rich culture of Bo-Kaap.
Shireen arrived to the museum and instantly opened all the blinds, pouring light into the dimly lit museum. It was clear that Shireen was a vibrant individual. She taught us about how the Bo-Kaap, which is an area in the heart of Cape Town, consists mainly of Malays. Malays are the men and women who came to South Africa from Indonesia during the slave trade. The slave trade began in 1652 as the Dutch implemented a plan to attract the Malays to come to South Africa without force. What the Dutch did was this: they took the Sufi Saints (religious leaders) to South Africa and in return, many Malays from Indonesia followed. The Dutch didn’t have to kick down any doors, they just waved the Sufi Saints in front of the Malays and they came. In the Bo-Kaap, which is near the harbor, you will find mosques and unique architecture that reflect the religious views and lifestyles of the Malays’ community life. Shireen told us about important figures in the Bo-Kaap such as Tuan Guru who was imprisoned on Robben Island for 30 years. During Tuan Guru’s time on Robben Island he wrote the Quaran from memory! When he was released he started the first mosque.
Shireen went on to tell us about life when the British emancipated slavery. Hospitals, schools and homes were built and it was a great time for everyone in the Bo-Kaap. This is when many of the beautiful buildings and homes you see in the Bo-Kaap were built. According to Shireen: “It was party time in Bo-Kaap!” Shortly after this, Apartheid was put into effect and everyone was separated. Up until this time the Bo-Kaap hadn’t been solely Malays, but many different ethnic groups. The Malays were forced to move and even the different white groups were separated. In 1966, a flourishing area called District Six was bulldozed.
It was interesting at this point as Shireen told as that she wasn’t going to do any more history about Bo-Kaap and she gave us some more interesting facts about the area. She told us about Moulood-an-Nabi, which represents the Birth of the Prophet. This is when they go into the bush, collect orange and lemon leaves and proceed to cut the leaves. We also learned about the “Noon Gun”, which is a cannon that is shot off every day at noon. The first use of the Noon Gun was in 1810, it signaled when ships were coming into the harbor. After World War II, the Noon Gun’s purpose changed: it was shot off everyday to commemorate those soldiers lost in battle. At the sound of the Noon Gun, everyone was to stand quietly for one minute.
After learning about all of the interesting things in and about Bo-Kaap, Shireen took us on a walking tour of the area. She took us by the first mosque built in South Africa, which Nelson Mandela helped rebuild in 1994. Something I found interesting was the name of the streets in Bo-Kaap. You could tell the different backgrounds of the street names; many of the street names came from German, Italian, Dutch and British origins. A disturbing thing about the Bo-Kaap is that many of the people (especially senior citizens) are being forced to leave due to a rising property tax. Shireen seemed extremely displeased with the actions of many foreigners who come and buy a home, let it sit for a few years and then sell it off for ridiculous prices. The vibrant community that once had the streets littered with children and musicians now seemed to be fading. As we continued up and down the hilly stone streets we came upon “Smartie Town”, which is a row of homes that are painted in bright colors. In 1994, Nelson Mandela allowed people to paint their homes however they wanted and this row of homes were painted loud, bright colors, representing their new freedom in a post-apartheid society. We then made our way up to the Tun Baru Burial Ground. Tun Baru means “New Ground”. This is where many of the ancestors are buried, including Tuan Guru. From the burial ground we had a great view of the city and just as in many big cities in South Africa, directly next to the large office buildings was a squatter camp where people without homes set up a place to live.
The day had already been fabulous and Shireen capped it off by taking us to her home and serving us lunch. Her home was beautiful and so was the food! She served us Samoosas, Chili Bites, Koeksisters (sweet cinnamon cakes), fruit, yogurt, all types of juice and a variety of fruits that included guavas, bananas and oranges. She finished the meal with some tea and just as we were drinking the tea. BANG. It was the Noon Gun; Jess screamed as the loud bang was quite startling.
After we finished our food, Shireen spoke to us a bit about her history working with the ANC (African National Congress). As she was displaced during the times of Apartheid she began to house exiles in her home at the Cape Flats (infamous township where many victims of Apartheid were sent). These people who stayed with her had made flags and were spreading the word that Mandela was still alive. The current Parliament in South Africa has multiple individuals serving who stayed with Shireen during this tumultuous time. She spoke briefly about the violence and struggle she experienced balancing family life and a life fighting Apartheid. It was beginning to dawn on all of us how lucky we were to be in the presence of such an influential person.
In 1999, Shireen was pressured into standing for the ANC in her ward, which went beyond Bo-Kaap where she was not as well known. She spoke of the positive things she was able to do such as help out families who were experiencing tough times. She seemed to really enjoy being involved in the community. After talking about all of the positive things, her tone began to change. As some know, the current state of South Africa is not great. She wasn’t quite sure of where the ANC was headed and was frustrated with the political corruption and inefficiency that seemed to be occurring. She said that since 2000, things just don’t seem to be going well.
As we wrapped up the day, Shireen told us about the book she is writing. Her book will talk about her time living in Bo-Kaap and it will be directed toward high school age children. It was such an honor to see a part of Cape Town that has such rich culture and to have someone like Shireen tell us all about it. We left her home to the sound of prayers being projected by audio speakers in the streets. It was around 1 pm and time for prayer. I believe that this day at the museum and more importantly with Shireen showed us that South Africa isn’t just a country that is separated by blacks and whites. It’s a country that, much like America, has a multitude of ethnicities and religions and as life goes on, these things begin to get integrated into one another.

Nkandla

Samantha Sawruk
August 9, 2007 by Samantha Sawruk

Nkandla: A Time of Inspiration and New Perspectives

Nkandla is a deeply rural district located two hours from the industrialized city of Richards Bay. After completing three weeks of teaching in our Richards Bay schools I was excited to experience a new school, new staff and new challenges. I anxiously awaited the move, uncertain of the situation I would encounter and the lessons I would learn.
The Nkandla school district contains over 100 primary and secondary schools. The district covers a large land area and is located in a mountainous region. There is no public transportation system besides taxis and many of the roads are unpaved. Most of the students walk to school (some up to six or seven kilometers) and they often attend the school closest to their home because of the walking. There are schools that can only be reached by foot because of the mountains and lack of paved roadways. As a result the students and staff can drive or take a taxi to a certain point and then must walk. During my stay in Nkandla I was able to walk to school because it was so close to our chalets. It was interesting to be able to walk to school just like so many of my students do every day. The walk took nearly thirty minutes because of the mountain I had to climb along the way.


The schools of Nkandla provide education and support to students in grades R through 12. Schools range in size from 35 learners to over 1000 in others. In addition to mainstream education, the district is also home to Vuleka School for the Deaf. The district is divided into several different wards, each containing thirty or more schools. Jackson Hadebe (PO Box 12234, Empangeni 3880, South Africa) is a ward superintendent for thirty schools in the area. He has held the position for the last four years and in that time has instituted a great deal of changes in the schools. For example, he has worked to add a grade twelve to Vuleka School for the Deaf. He has begun helping teachers to reflect on their techniques by video recording their teaching and workshops on different teaching techniques. Throughout our stay in South Africa, Jackson has offered support and insights into the education system of this evolving country. He speaks openly about the system, its strengths and weaknesses. When asked what his future goals were for his ward of schools he commented on “continued improvement of teaching techniques, remodeling several school buildings and eventually adding working computers for students to work with”. It is through such discussions that I have been able to take a closer, more critical look into the educational system of South Africa and the impacts of the system on individual schools, teachers and students.
While in Nkandla I was placed at Manyala Primary. Manyala is a small school, with just over three hundred students ranging from grade R to grade 7. The school employs nine teachers including Mr. Ndimande, the principal. The school is considered a bottom twenty school in the district. This means it receives funding from the government to cover school fees and expenses for students. Mr. Ndimande explained to me that only two years ago every school in the Nkandla district was asked to complete a school evaluation form. The form asked questions regarding school finances, school resources and the ability of students to pay school fees. Mr. Ndimande told me that because so many of his students were unable to afford school fees, the school was classified as a bottom twenty and as a result the government now covers all costs of running the school. The schools of Nkandla are broken down into groups depending on their financial capabilities. Each group receives a different amount of support from local companies and the government. I asked Mr. Ndimande how it was previously addressed if students were unable to pay school fees. He told me that prior to last year, if a student couldn’t pay, their families would provide a service for the school such as landscaping, cooking or maintenance. It was interesting to hear about the different ways schools accommodate students and their specific financial needs. Mr. Ndimande told me the new system was a more effective way to run many of the schools in Nkandla, especially because so many of the families in the area live in poverty and find it difficult to afford school expenses. Mr. Ndimande told me, “It is only because of this new system that many of these students can afford to come to learn”. It was obvious through our conversation that Mr. Ndimande cares for his school and students. The compassion he demonstrated through our conversation demonstrates his dedication to Manyala Primary.
Manyala employs nine educators and I had a chance to visit each classroom and observe each teacher’s interactions with their students. I was surprised when I noticed many classrooms had desks arranged in groups for students to work together. After watching an English lesson for a few minutes I noticed students are encouraged to work together and actively participate during instruction time. The classrooms are always full of noise and when I listen closely I can hear students repeating and explaining information to one another. One of my colleagues at Manyala Primary said, “If your classroom is quiet you aren’t doing your job. Teaching is about allowing students to make noise, noise is good because it means students are learning.” This quote demonstrates how valuable learner-centered instruction is to Manyala Primary and so many other schools in the Nkandla district.


While in Nkandla I also had the opportunity to teach several lessons to grades 4 through 7. One of my favorite teaching experiences was with grade 4 during arts and culture. The lesson began when Mr. Ndimande introduced me and then asked students to share their favorite part of their culture with me. I watched in amazement as nine students stood up and quickly gathered at the front of the room. Without a prompt from the teacher they began a traditional Zulu song and dance. It was incredible to watch these students eagerly perform in front of their peers. Their faces gleamed with pride and as the song continued students from around the room also stood up and began dancing and singing. For me, this was an unforgettable teaching moment. My students acted as the teacher and I as a learner. It was incredible to see such confidence and pride in the students. It was from this moment that I knew the students of Manyala would teach me far more than I could ever teach them.
During a conversation with Jackson he mentioned the difficulty that arises in trying to find educated and qualified teachers to work in Nkandla. He explained that very often teachers are hired and shortly after request to be transferred to different districts. They are transferred and once again schools are left without teachers. Many teachers see Nkandla as a way to get hired into the school system so they can be transferred to a more desirable area. As a result underqualified teachers are being hired to teach. Jackson gave the example of hiring grade 12 graduates to teach as they attend university. While this is not the most desirable situation it is not uncommon in Nkandla. During this conversation with Jackson I recalled different conversations with several Manyala educators. I was interested to learn several of the teachers of Manyala were born and raised in Nkandla. They have taught at Manyala for over fifteen years and continue to adapt and critique their teaching techniques. These same teachers spoke to me of their desires to complete an honors degree from a local university. They recognized the importance of continuing their own education for the benefit of the school and students. They are eager to try new lessons and learn new skills to teach to students. For example, one teacher is taking courses on computers and technology so he will be able to teach his students to use computers in the near future. I asked about school computers and his response was, “We have fifteen computers. I know we don’t have electricity or a facility for them yet, but when we do I will be ready to teach”. I was so impressed with his enthusiasm for teaching, that while Manyala struggles to find resources and finances, its teachers remain strong-willed and passionate about education. I found this to be inspirational as a beginning teacher. Manyala Primary embodies many of the challenges that so many U.S. teachers have, including lack of funding and resources. Despite daily struggles, these educators continue on their mission to teach and inspire students.
From my four days in Nkandla I have gained a new perspective on teaching. I have learned about the many different hardships these schools face. Most schools in the area struggle with issues of limited resources, no running water or electricity, limited teaching staffs and insufficient funding. Despite the adversity facing these schools they have inspired me with their dedication towards education. The perseverance demonstrated by the Nkandla schools has instilled in me a new sense of hope to become the best educator I can possibly be. Above all else I have come to recognize that the challenges of teaching serve as a means to create truly great educators.

We're staying at the Amatshenezimpisi Municipal Chalets--in the mountains of Nkandla. School visits each day--we are in 17 different schools. This next entry is from Julia, who was at the Vuleka School.

Nkandla Visit: Vuleka School for the Deaf
By Julia Magdzinski
After spending three weeks teaching in the Richards Bay area, the idea of leaving the city to work in the rural Nkandla district was both exciting and somewhat daunting for many of the people in our group. For one, we would be leaving the comfort of our host families, whom we had all gotten to know (and love) during our stay. In addition, most of us were not used to working alone in the schools, as we would be in Nkandla. These factors, along with a few minor living arrangement setbacks, definitely contributed to a collective uncertainty about what the week might bring!
Since I am a Deaf Education major at Michigan State, Jackson Hadebe, the superintendent of the Nkandla circuit, had arranged a placement for me at Vuleka School for the Deaf. Although I work with deaf students in the United States, I was, in all honesty, incredibly nervous about my first day at Vuleka. The deputy principal of the school, Sbusiso Zwane (Sbu for short), picked me up right on time at 7:30 on Monday morning and off I went to a school that I knew next to nothing about. I knew that the language barrier between the students and myself would probably be a major obstacle—in the United States, we use American Sign Language, while the students at Vuleka use South African Sign Language (SASL). Fortunately, Sbu gave me a wonderful tour of the school upon my arrival and eased many of my fears about communicating with the students. It didn’t take long for me to realize that the students at Vuleka were so excited about my visit that they could not have cared less about my limited SASL skills.
The school, which employs more than 90 staff members, including 38 full-time teachers, is a residential school with a population of 320 deaf and hard-of-hearing students in grades R-12. Due to the high teacher-to-student ratio, the class sizes at Vuleka are relatively small, typically ranging from 7 to 15 students per teacher. Interestingly, the majority of the teachers at the school are not trained in deaf education. The field is in dire need of qualified teachers, but the resources to train new educators in deaf education are simply not available in such a rural area. As a result, all but three of the teachers at Vuleka began teaching at the school with little or no knowledge of how to use South African Sign Language. This is rather unfortunate, as every one of the students at the school uses SASL to communicate.
When I inquired about the lack of teacher training and it’s effect on teacher-student communication, Sbu informed me that the teachers are hired in as general education teachers and that they are expected to simply “pick up” a sufficient amount of SASL within a few months. As someone who is familiar with the difficult process of learning sign language, I can attest to the fact that this is much harder than it sounds! I was curious about how much sign language is truly considered “sufficient” enough to for one to teach deaf students, but I knew that the teachers at Vuleka try their best with the resources that are available to them; therefore, I did not push the issue too much.
Even though my visit to Nkandla was short, I could immediately tell that the teachers at Vuleka operate with an extremely high level of intense dedication and a true passion for teaching. This was so refreshing to see, especially because special needs children in South Africa are not always treated with the same patience and understanding that their peers receive in the mainstream schools. Unfortunately, the educational system in South Africa has not yet reached a point where it can fully and effectively implement the idea of inclusive education for all students. I personally found this incredibly frustrating, because I know how much potential these children have and that they deserve every opportunity to succeed in life. In the United States, the government grants deaf individuals access to whatever resources are necessary in order for one to obtain higher education. This is not the case in South Africa.
Although I absolutely loved my visit to Vuleka, I found it rather upsetting to learn that most of the older students at the school felt as if they had very few options for the future. Even though all of the students at Vuleka function at normal levels cognitively, their hearing losses usually prevent them from being able to continue their education at the university level and reach their career goals. From what I was told, there is only one university in all of Kwazulu-Natal that caters to deaf students, and even that is on a somewhat restricted basis. There simply are not enough qualified sign language interpreters and other necessary resources to assist the deaf students in obtaining college degrees. After spending a significant amount of time with the Grade 12 students at Vuleka, my concern for their situation began to grow.
Fortunately, I was able to speak with Jackson about this situation, and he assured me that he is aware of the problems that have arisen at Vuleka School. Jackson had to fight for the recent addition of Grades 11 and 12, so the issue of academic guidance and finding university options is a new one for Vuleka. In fact, this is the first year that the school has even had a Grade 12. Despite my worries about the future of my new Grade 12 friends, I know that they are in good hands with Jackson. He is currently in negotiations with the University of Pretoria, in hopes that university officials will agree to admit some of the Grade 12 students next year. My fingers are crossed!
I will definitely be checking up on the progress that will hopefully be made, as I feel as if I grew very close to the students at Vuleka in a rather short period of time. Even though the teachers kept telling me how much they had learned from me, I know that I am the one who will be taking an amazing experience back to Michigan. If everything goes as planned, my students this year will be participating in a pen pal program with a Grade 4 class at Vuleka, and I know that they will learn as much from the students as I did during my stay in Nkandla.

Last Day in Richards Bay Schools